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Q: After you use it, does the opening of the tube get clogged up (like in Elmer's glue)? If yes, what can be done to open up the tube again?

Before storing for long time an opened tube, I put a little petroleum jelly on the thread of the nozzle. Then I take approx. 1"x1" piece of aluminum foil, also smear some jelly on it, cover the nozzle and jam it around the treads. Then screw on the cap on top of it. Store in the freezer. The jelly helps to (1) seal and prevent the solvent from evaporating; (2) prevent sticking the cap/foil to the nozzle. Make sure not to get the jelly on the material you are gluing next time. Some hardening may still occur: pry off the hardened part with a sharp tool (see the trick with a drill bit mentioned by J. Brown). I've managed to use one tube many times in a span of several months following this routine.

Q: The second time I wanted to use this product, it was hard in the tube and wouldn't come out. How do you get the product soft enough to squeeze it out

Hi, after the first time I used the Freesole, I put the cap on and put it in the freezer. The next time i used it, i took it out of the freezer and let it warm up for 15-20 minutes and it came out of the tube fine. They recommend you put the tube in warm water in the instructions. I hope this helps.

Q: Would Freesole work to repair a seam that's starting to unravel above the heel on my favorite pair of leather boots? The rip is almost a 1/2 inch now.

Freesole isn't really intended for that kind of repair, but for building up a worn down surface, or gluing two flat surfaces together. If it's a stitched seam up the back of the boot, and the stitching, not the leather is failing, it might prevent further unraveling. It probably wouldn't hold together two pieces of edge-butted leather, but if there's a leather liner behind the seam (dress boots), or a reinforcing strip over it (work boots), you may be able to glue the two sides down to it- but clamping it would be difficult and messy. A shoe tree would be the best way to maintain the shape during curing.If it were me, I'd go to a shoe repair shop - a good one could fix it better and faster. If they are high quality dress leather boots, the cost and appearance of a professional repair would be worth having a pro do it.

Q: I have about a dime size hole in the bottom of my shoe and there is nothing but air to glue it to. Will this fill up the hole and seal it off?

Sorry I didn't see this sooner. I think it will work for your problem because I've been using this stuff for years all kinds of ways. I wear off my expensive running shoes way too fast on outside of heel. Because this liquid will just run off the shoe, I clean well with alcohol, make a masking or duct tape dam around outside of heel, then apply stuff, and BALANCE SHOE UPSIDE DOWN SO URETHANE STAYS LEVEL! (use blocks, Legos, rags, whatever). Spread with tip of screwdriver, wire twisty, etc. For your situation, suggest you use large piece of masking or duct tape INSIDE shoe for surface to apply urethane (to replace your "air to glue to!), then apply urethane to outside. Balance shoe upside down, and Try to "dish" it a bit to puddle the urethane about 1/8 to 1/4" deep. If not, try building a tiny circular dam around puddle? After cures 1 or 2 days, add more if desired. Let it cure couple of days before you pull off the tape inside, or even try leaving it?. If it's too bumpy or uneven, gently level the dry cured rubber with a fine wood rasp or file. I've done it often. Then my running shoes easily go more weeks or months depending on how thick I made the patch. Also, after my HS son sprinter and pole-vaulter kicked his plant foot on the plant board and tore about half the front of the sole off his very expensive, variable-length screw-in spikes, track shoes, I cleaned both sides carefully and then "glued" the sole back onto the shoe body using this urethane. The keys are good surface prep, apply to both sides, make GOOD contact all over (that used my workbench vice, many rubber bands, pieces of rope ties, wires, whatever), then cure for 2-3 days. It stayed together and worked fine until he wore them out 2 years later. I did the same repair to my expensive hiking boots when the sole came loose in back, and they lasted 2 more trips to the bottom of the Grand Canyon for me. This stuff, used creatively, is amazing.

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Description

🦶 Fix it once, wear it forever – your shoes’ new best friend!

REBUILD PROTECT - Create durable toe caps and rebuild worn heels to extend shoe life
ALL TERRAIN COMPATIBILITY - Works seamlessly on leather, suede, rubber, neoprene, canvas, and GORE-TEX
CONFIDENCE IN EVERY REPAIR - Trusted by pros to fix hiking, work, and athletic shoes with superior abrasion resistance
WEATHERPROOF YOUR FOOTWEAR - Unfazed by extreme heat, cold, or moisture for year-round reliability
LASTS THROUGH EVERY ADVENTURE - Permanently bonds soles, heels, and toes with a clear, flexible finish

GEAR AID Aquaseal SR is a 1 oz urethane-based adhesive designed for permanent shoe repairs. It bonds strongly to a wide range of footwear materials, dries clear and flexible, and offers superior abrasion resistance and waterproofing. Ideal for rebuilding heels, creating toe protectors, and sealing leaks, it withstands extreme temperatures and keeps your shoes adventure-ready.

Have a Question? See What Others Asked

After you use it, does the opening of the tube get clogged up (like in Elmer's glue)? If yes, what can be done to open up the tube again?

The second time I wanted to use this product, it was hard in the tube and wouldn't come out. How do you get the product soft enough to squeeze it out

Would Freesole work to repair a seam that's starting to unravel above the heel on my favorite pair of leather boots? The rip is almost a 1/2 inch now.

I have about a dime size hole in the bottom of my shoe and there is nothing but air to glue it to. Will this fill up the hole and seal it off?

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